I'm amazed at how often I get e-mail from a disgruntled home cook,
lamenting the fact that, once again, a dish of pasta has turned into a
culinary disaster.
I hear stories of overcooked, undercooked, tasteless
pasta that may also be stuck together, or otherwise inedible. In fact,
I recently had the experience where I was shopping with a friend and I
suggested that she buy some pasta. Her response was that it was too
unpredictable to cook.
It needn't be that way. First of all, 90%
of cooking is being there. That is, letting the telephone ring through
to voice-mail; perhaps leaving guests in the living room sipping their
Chardonnay and simply keeping your focus on the task at hand. And by
being there-that is, tending the pasta-you'll be able to do the only
test available to judge its doneness: to taste.
Those two tips
alone will improve your pasta-cooking skills, but I offer here, ten
little steps that, taken together, will guarantee a perfect dish of
pasta every time. Follow these steps, and you'll prepare pasta that
will consistently impress your family, your friends, and your harshest
critic; you.
1. All pasta is not created equal. Choose a brand
with a solid reputation in the marketplace. De Cecco and Barilla are
two fine brands readily available in supermarkets.
2. Use a pot
that's large enough to accommodate the pasta without crowding. For one
pound of pasta, an eight-quart pot is good; a ten-quart pot is better.
Pasta needs room to move freely as it cooks. At a minimum, use nothing
smaller than a six-quart pot.
3. Use plenty of water. For one pound of pasta, you should use at least six quarts of water.
4.
Add salt to the water. About 1 Tbs. per gallon. Salt adds flavor to the
pasta that helps to create a well-seasoned dish. Often, a perfectly
seasoned sauce will still taste like it needs "something" because the
pasta is unseasoned.
5. Bring the water to a full, rolling boil
before adding the pasta. One of the prime causes for pasta sticking
together is that the water had not yet come to a full boil. When you
add pasta to water that has not yet reached the boiling point, it
releases natural starches, which act like glue. Since the pasta is
simply sitting in the water at the time, the strands stick together.
6.
Bring the water back to the boil as quickly as possible after adding
the pasta. In the case of pasta strands, like spaghetti or linguine,
stir the pasta until it has wilted and become submerged in the cooking
water, then cover the pot until the water returns to the boil. When the
water has boiled, though, uncover the pot, and finish cooking uncovered.
7.
Stir the pasta two or three times throughout the cooking process. Pasta
cooks in eight to ten minutes. The brief time you spend attending to it
away from family or guests will reap huge rewards at the dinner table.
8.
Never add olive oil to the pasta cooking water. The olive oil coats the
pasta, and prevents sauce from adhering to it when you've put the
entire dish together.
9. Cook the pasta to the 'al dente' state.
The only way to judge this is by tasting. Manufacturer's cooking times
are mere guidelines. Begin tasting the pasta about two minutes before
the manufacturer says it should be done. Also, there will be a small
amount of carryover cooking between the time you remove the pasta from
the stove, drain in the sink, and combine with the sauce.
10.
Never rinse pasta. When you rinse pasta, you're washing away most of
the starches and nutrients that you were seeking to enjoy in the first
place.
So be there. Be attentive. Taste, and learn when pasta has
cooked to the consistency that you like. Follow these ten little steps,
and you'll develop a reputation as a miracle worker with pasta. And
with the myriad of sauces in the Italian and Italian-American cuisines,
you will have expanded your cooking repertoire beyond your wildest
dreams.

Skip Lombardi is the
author of two cookbooks: "La Cucina dei Poveri: Recipes from my
Sicilian Grandparents," and "Almost Italian: Recipes from America's
Little Italys." He has been a Broadway musician, high-school math
teacher, software engineer, and a fledgeling blogger. But he has never
let any of those pursuits get in the way of his passion for cooking and
eating. Visit his Web site to learn more about his cookbooks: www.skiplombardi.com. For comments or questions, e-mail at
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